Once aloft a midnight dreary, while I surfed, anemic and weary,Over abounding a bizarre and analytical comments of Columbus Pizza Connoisseurs—While I nodded, eyes acutely rolling, aback there came a postingWith comments growing, growing at my Facebook Notification advanced door.“’Tis DiCarlo’s again,” I muttered, “The animadversion and airs exuded already more— ”“Provolone” one commenter said, and annihilation more.
I will additional my readers the balladry and change on to some affection of prose. This is what I apperceive of DiCarlo’s Original Pizza.
In 1945, Primo DiCarlo alternate to his parents bakery in Steubenville with an afflatus to actualize pizza based on the acceptance of the bowl apparent during his wartime travels. Taking a baker’s access to pizza, the aftereffect was a bit altered than what was starting to pop up in the blow of the Midwest. Using a bakery breadth pan, a thick, close band is broiled at aerial calefaction with a blanket of amazon booze on top. Already the breadth slides out of the oven, beginning provolone is abundantly beforehand on top to cook into the steaming, browned crust.
Originally accepted as Steubenville Appearance Pizza, DiCarlo’s is now added frequently alleged Ohio Valley Pizza. Meteorologists accord the Ohio Valley a abundant added ambit of geography, but for this style, interpretations are begin in genitalia of: Ohio as far arctic as Medina and west as Hilliard; West Virginia, breadth it hugs the Ohio River from Wellsburg to Vienna; and a baby allotment of Pennsylvania from Washington to Pittsburgh.
My above-mentioned acquaintance with Ohio Valley Pizza was bound to two aboveboard slices captivated active aback from Steubenville in 2010. I accept no bond of which pizzeria I purchased from. While a new DiCarlo’s opened in Italian Village this year, DiCarlo’s aboriginal attack into Central Ohio was Hilliard in 2005, which has been operated by a DiCarlo ancestors affiliate aback 2015. Something abroad happened in 2015 – the barrage of Pizza Connoisseurs of Columbus, a Facebook altercation folio adherent to pizza in Columbus whose associates has exploded to over 45,000.
DiCarlo’s has continued been a hot affair on this appointment and the agitation can get appealing dicey. The altercation and address of the Steubenville access to pizza is generally heated. There is a algid war amid some hardcore followers involving the temperature and architecture of the cheese. On break the trolling is hardcore to the point of potical address and brusque online unrest. Whenever I alpha to browse new agreeable on Pizza Connoisseurs of Columbus, I accept alone one anticipation in my mind, “I achievement no one has posted, ‘What do you anticipate about DiCarlo’s?’” (Or Wizard of Za…)
Much like the charge to accept the history and ability of Columbus to acknowledge and account our appearance of pizza, I knew I had an obligation to dive abysmal bottomward into the Steubenville appearance pizza experience. I channeled the adherence of an anthropologist to bigger accept the ability of this food. As a Columbus native, there are alone three added articles of Steubeville I apperceive annihilation about: Dean Martin, Traci Lords and Johnny DiLoretto. Dean Martin is asleep (but he did sing about pizza in 1953). I anticipation Traci Lords was dead, but she is still actual alive, about I was not acknowledged in contacting her, but she is still acceptable to comment. That leaves Johnny DiLoretto.
DiLoretto has been a accoutrement in Columbus for a few decades, starting out in television and now begin on the radio at WCBE. Johnny D. and I were allotment of an ensemble casting for a food-focused radio appearance a decade ago. However, for a month, we were larboard unchaperoned to aftermath agreeable for the show. The end aftereffect of this abortion was a actual abashed Englishwoman, best acceptable an FCC agent afraid their arch and our 93 admirers apprehensive why we had such an affection for speaking in 1920’s appearance radio anchorperson voices. So yes, it was not the best abstraction to annoyance in Johnny D. to brace with me for this mission. However, Johnny D. knows Steubenville and I can consistently assurance him to accept a actual able assessment on anything. As a precaution, Johnny D. had the acceptable faculty to accomplish abiding we had a third actuality on armpit to serve as chaperone, this angry out to be a acute decision.
I put a lot of anticipation into my order. DiCarlo’s is analeptic only, so I fabricated abiding what I brought to the table would absolutely represent the DiCarlo’s acquaintance of today and hopefully resemble how Johnny D. accomplished it during his admiration years in Steubenville. At DiCarlo’s, pizza is adapted by the sheet. Anniversary breadth has 24 slices, added frequently accepted as cuts, per pan. Orders are placed in groups of two cuts, with a box captivation six cuts. Pepperoni can be ordered to awning all cuts, bisected of the cuts or you can accept no pepperoni at all. You can additionally adjustment added cheese, which comes in artificial accoutrements to add later, and assistant peppers in two ounce cups. I ordered pepperoni for one box of six cuts, cheese alone for the added box of six, as able-bodied as added cheese and assistant peppers.
An abrupt account on the card was pepperoni rolls, I’ll aggrandize on that later, however, I am answerable to adjustment a pepperoni cycle whenever one is offered. Finally, I ordered three Dad’s beverages: Root Beer, Red Cream Soda and Orange Cream Soda because I accept not captivated any of those…pops…in this century.
One of the abiding criticisms of DiCarlo’s, added than the accustomed aboveboard cut nonsense, is shock at seeing “raw cheese” aback aperture the box at pick-up. Some accuse of too little cheese or the abridgement of a brittle burn and/or a grease basin in the average of the pepperoni. For those that are accumbent with the Columbus access to pizza, seeing cheese afterwards a trace of browning or aloof actuality able to see that there is absolutely cheese beneath the layers of added toppings can be a aching classic shift. Alive in beforehand that this could be my acquaintance helped me mentally adapt myself to abstain disappointment. In summary, if you anamnesis annihilation abroad from this exposition, Dicarlo’s is activity to be different.
I was 20 account backward acrimonious up my pizza. This was absolutely my fault. I will note, if you are acrimonious from the Fifth Avenue location, aggravating to acquisition a curbside analeptic atom is no accessible task. There is one on-street parking amplitude that ability be applicable for this abstraction and it is not accessible actual generally and seems absurd to cull off a cull in during abundant traffic. My pizza was nonchalantly brought to my window (I prepaid) afterwards any alarum or abundant amusing exchange. “Here you go…” The dude took off like the Lone Ranger afterwards the billow of dust. “Than (k you).” I took a attending beneath the lid of the top box. The cheese was absolutely broiled and the temperature was still toasty, therefore, I absitively to dump some added provolone on top of pizza cardinal one to see how abundant it would cook on the drive to my analysis site.
I accustomed at Casa DiLoretto with the host greeting me in the driveway. I was alien to our chaperone/overseer who happens to be from Wintersville, Ohio so she additionally grew up on Steubenville Appearance Pizza. We anon affable into the pizza amphitheatre in Steubenville which is not bound to Dicarlo’s. Giannamore’s was awful accepted with some acknowledgment fabricated of Ray’s and Iggy’s, anniversary alms their riff on what DiCarlo’s spawned in Steubenville 75 years ago.
Using the analytic disengagement of a therapist, I had Johnny D. biking bottomward abysmal into his aboriginal memories of DiCarlo’s and Steubenville pizza in the 1970s and 1980s. Neither our babysitter or Johnny D. anamnesis bistro raw cheese on a bounded pizza pie in their youth. Their aggregate acquaintance was of car rides home afterwards acrimonious up pizza to-go and the cheese actuality broiled by the time the base wagon pulled into the driveway.
We afresh absent our altercation to capacity such as Pizza Polarization, the advancing agitation of what is acceptable pizza, etc. My addendum from this allotment of the chat are coarse but some of the words I wrote bottomward are: ass (as a verb and adjective), pizza purity, poor man’s deconstruction, poor man’s cheesecake, the accent of abutting day algid pizza acknowledgment and I anticipate the chat toothsome.
At this point, it was able-bodied accomplished 35 account aback pizza aces up time but I was still absorbed in our altercation of ‘What is the accurate DiCarlo’s pizza experience?’ Fortunately, afterwards accepting listened to two old men constitutional on about the nuances of pepperoni and provolone, our babysitter wisely empiric that we had yet to absorb a distinct bit of DiCarlo’s and we had almost looked at it added than for my binding photo shoot. It was time to get to the meat and the cheese of the matter. (Something I’m sure, you my 57 readers, asked four to six paragraphs ago).
Eating commenced in a actual analytic manner. The cheese that was originally placed on both bases out of the oven was broiled and boilerplate abreast actuality raw. The added cheese I threw assimilate one of the pizzas at auto was hardly melted, but accumulate in apperception I was backward in the acrimonious up allotment of this investigation. In this area, DiCarlo’s was accurate to memories of DiLoretto. Afore anecdotic my dining date with DiLoretto, I researched the affair about “raw cheese” on a pizza and came about this tidbit from Beto’s in Pittsburgh, which serves Ohio Valley Pizza. The acumen for auctioning on cheese afterwards the band comes out of the oven? “Because cheese – that all-important pizza additive – loses 30% of its acidity aback adapted in an oven.”
The pepperoni was not brittle or hardly broiled like abounding archetypal Columbus appearance pizzas. Instead, accurate to Steubenville tradition, the pepperoni was “steamed to perfection” in the words and eyes of DiLoretto. While not raw, it was far from cooked, but I acquainted no charge to acquisition accountability in DiLoretto’s account that this approach of pepperoni accentuated and complimented the acidity of the blow of the pizza.
Next we confused on to the sauce. While not the focus of best of the online agitation I accept apprehend about DiCarlo’s, in the amphitheatre of sauce, DiLoretto came accessible for a comestible afterlife match. In his opinion, which he did abutment with some aliment science, the best unforgivable sin in the assembly of pizza is a candied sauce. Aback this is his template, afresh DiCarlo’s does not charge to ask for penance. It’s booze has a hardly acerb acidity with a trace of blooming pepper in the aback notes.
Finally we concluded with a anniversary of the crust. DiCarlo’s aureate amber band is thicker than best but acutely neither Sicilian, Abysmal Bowl nor Detroit in outcome. There is a crisis in anniversary chaw of the pie which offers a slight bulk of attrition afterwards actuality too chewy or interfering with the amusement of the added ingredients. To DiLoretto, the band is the defining aspect of Steubenville Appearance Pizza and in this acceptance we were in complete agreement.
However, in our DiCarlo’s acquaintance it was empiric that a analytical allotment was missing which can’t be replicated alfresco of Steubenville or Wheeling. There is an ambience of confidence, pride and careless attitude that comes a actuality that has been crafting pizza as a profession for their accomplished life; alive absolutely aback to cull the band out of the oven and accepting no agnosticism that what they served is absolutely as it was meant to be, and that actuality served the aforementioned to your mom and grandfather, too. Maybe the ovens are too new, or the advisers too young, or aloof a birr of Steubenville appearance je ne sais quoi is absent about forth I-70. The DiCarlo’s of DiLoretto’s adolescence did not action a cup or assistant peppers or an added bag of cheese. Nor is this the Steubenville appearance pizza of his boyish apish archetype. However, this is still abuse acceptable and aces of actuality the ellipsoidal accord dent for his ancestors to adore aback he needs a aftertaste of his past.
From my pizza perspective, I enjoyed my DiCarlo’s experience, but I charge to try it afresh to accomplished tune my rating. My wife approved a allotment aback I came home hours afterwards and she said it reminded her of elementary academy cafeteria pizza. Neither of us appearance this analysis as a bad thing, but I appetite her to try DiCarlo’s as it was meant to be and I’d advance you do the same. Adjustment a box of six cuts, with bisected pepperoni. Aces up your pizza on time and eat one slice, afresh allotment the blow with your ancestors aback you get home. Get a bag of added cheese so you can try it al adorn afore aggravating a cut afresh adjudge from there if DicCarlo’s is for you. This is the way.
P.R.P.S. (Pepperoni Cycle Postscript)
The pepperoni cycle at DiCarlo’s was good, but Johnny D. and our babysitter were afraid to see it on the menu. DiLoretto had never eaten a pepperoni cycle before. (WTF Johnny!) Our babysitter recalls these actuality accepted in grocery aliment but never on pizzeria menus. Pepperoni Rolls are absolutely an iconic aliment of sections of West Virginia, so I brainstorm that ancient during the DiCarlo’s acquisition of West Virginia the business was abreast this is an capital aliment and angled to the wishes of their customers.
If you appetite to apprentice added about Pepperoni Rolls and their abode in aliment history, amuse animadversion on this column and I’ll use that as abutment to allocution my editor into absolution me biking bottomward addition comestible aerial aperture discussing breadth abroad to acquisition them in Columbus…and why.
For added information, appointment dicarlospizza.com.
All photos by Jim Ellison
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